Day 11: St. Vincent to Hône
This morning I felt better though still a little weak. We walked on but decided to do only a “short” day of 22km for me to get back on track. For the first hour we mainly walked uphill and my lungs were burning as if they were about to explode while the sweat was dripping down my body like I was taking a shower. I felt amazing, as you can imagine. Then finally God showed some mercy and let me walk downhill on a path covered by the shade of trees. I thanked him a lot and he showed kindness by pushing some clouds in front of the sun and providing me with an alternative route that skipped yet another mountain of more than a hundred meters difference in hight. I was a very happy girl and got stronger by drinking tea and eating more dry bread things. We walked along a river and saw a beautiful church with amazing murals as well as a pretty cool castle (which we didn’t enter since they asked for money. Ridiculous!)
We encountered many a thousand dogs barking at us from every visible and invisible corner, like everyday I should say. However, today I caught one in action! And there were many more garden gnomes to admire. I won’t keep them from you. You deserve the same pleasures I experience.
Next door, the B&B for pilgrims, in an equally old building. Amazing. We keep going (uphill) to look for a diocesan to take us in since we want to safe some money. Just to find out, that is now the B&B. So we walk back, what are another thousand steps. Arrived, we realise the B&B is closed. Sure. What did we expect, really? So, again, we walk on and uphill, as we need to reach the next village for shelter for the night. Until there are no signs anymore. Great. We must have looked very lost when a nice Italian man approached us. He explained in French (I really need to learn some Italian) that we simply need to walk straight to get to Hône. That description is much better than any guide so we follow.
We see some people climbing walls, why not, and reach a little osteria. We ask if maybe they have rooms too, which they don’t. They too tell us to continue down the “chemin”. We do so and realise this is the main road. Fast cars and nearly no escape. Perfect. After a strenuous walk we arrive in Hône and ask for the B&B we were told to seek. We find it. We ring the bell. Someone opens. Thank you world. Finally. Well, nearly. Guess what? They’re full. Of course they are. But the lady is amazing and calls around for another place to stay. It’s August. It’s busy. We should make reservations, she says. And she finds us a place to stay. We walk more and get here.
Just when we finally arrive in our room, it starts raining outside. Which I think is positive. We shower, wash our clothes, make a tea (the usual life of a pilgrim) and walk to a nice restaurante when the rain stops. The food is amazing.
I can’t get up from the table. And this is the first time it is not due to pain in my feet and legs. When we get outside the rain has turned into something like a waterfall and accompanied by thunder and lightning we rush back to our “home”. We’re warming up again now. Oh, what a day.
So, instead of 22km, we walked 31,6 and only made 30km on the route. Perfect! 🙂 more tomorrow.