Day 32: Marina di Massa to Camaiore

It was a long straight walk along a street so close to the sea yet not close enough to see it today. This is the region where marble is produced. You might have heard of Carrara. The region is called Massa-Carrara. After that endless walk through a hopeless tourist area, I left this region behind.





However, obviously, I had to go for a swim before doing so since I didn’t go yesterday. The detour should at least have been worth it. It wasn’t as easy as I thought. All of the beaches down there are privately owned and you can only use them if you rent a sun umbrella or chairs. Since I’m from Germany where every beach is public (as far as I’m aware of) this seems ridiculous to me. Technically, they can’t forbid you to go for a swim. It’s just that you can’t reach the ocean. We learned it the hard way today. Eventually we made it to about five metres of public beach and I finally got my well deserved swim I. The salty water. Do you know what it’s like when you lie in the sea on your back? Your ears go underwater and you just stay above without any motion necessary. It was joyful. My whole body relaxed and I heard the most amazing sound of the day: silence! I enjoyed it very much.

Shortly after, Jesper’s and my way parted. He is taking a rest day at the sea, I wanted to walk on to maybe go to Pisa for a day while I’m in Lucca, which I should be reaching tomorrow. A rest day is needed. But after all the tourists in board shorts, I know I’d rather take it in a city with loads of culture to admire (and things NOT to buy…).

I intended to walk back up to the Via to reach Camaiore only to realise the way was twice as far as I thought. So Jesper convinced me to take the bus. I happily agreed. It was a detour of five kilometres to go to the beach. I’m happy to take the bus back. And I really enjoy this place here.

Well, when I arrived, the ostello seemed to be closed. But I asked around and found a different entrance. A little boy found the right person for me inside after telling him I. My three Italian words that I wanted to sleep here. The guy says they are full since a group of forty people is staying here tonight. I can’t believe it! I say that I got a mattress, if he maybe has a little space for me. He does. It’s the room that leads to all of the storage spaces to there is constant coming and going he says. No privacy. But he makes me a proper bed with a mattress, so I don’t care.


What I love even more is the shower. It’s crazy how walking in the heat makes you smell so badly (seriously!) and feel so dirty. Showering is what makes you feel human again.
So then I went for a long walk around the city. It’s beautiful.

In the church I ask the only person there for a stamp: the cleaning lady. She finds one. And is super nice.

I get myself some mandarins for tomorrow and strawberries to eat straight away. It feels like the whole town is looking at me while I walk happily down the road. Time for ice cream.
On a postcard I discovered that there is a Badia church so I set out to find it. And I do. The organist is practicing for a wedding when I enter. So beautiful!

Then I buy a little notebook and have dinner in the square. All by myself. I can’t tell you how much I’m enjoying the solitude. Company was amazing so far. But being alone is just right now.





6 responses

  1. Hi Kate, ich wünsch dir alles Gute für den weiteren Weg. Was machen deine Sehnen, Schulter ok? Und natürlich wünsch ich dir, dass du immer das bekommst, was du brauchst, sei es das Alleinesein oder auch die Gemeinschaft, wenn es passt.


    August 30, 2014 at 12:18 pm

    • Hey Günter. Ja, es ist alles soweit in Ordnung. Schulter tut noch weh. Aber das ist ja normal. Ich hoffe, du bist gut nach Hause gekommen. Kannst dich schonmal auf die Toskana nächstes Jahr freuen. Schön warm und hügelig. Und wunderschön…


      August 31, 2014 at 5:24 am

  2. walkmag

    I think those two Massa walking days on VF could easily by removed from the itinerary .Pilgrims will not have the sea experience they are imagining.

    It is just all concrete paving , no sea views and not worth the effort.


    August 30, 2014 at 9:49 pm

    • Very true. The real VF does however go through the actual city of Massa. But since it’s the only time we reach the sea at all, I thought it would be nice to do a detour…


      August 31, 2014 at 5:20 am

  3. Your walk sounds really interesting, how many miles are you walking in total??


    August 30, 2014 at 10:48 pm

    • That’s a good question. The trip is about 1100 kilometres long. In miles??! 😉


      August 31, 2014 at 5:23 am

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