Day 34: Pisa
This morning we took the train to Pisa. Those things are pretty fast, I must say. Landscape is simply passing by. But anyway…
In Pisa, the tower, the cemetery, the cathedral and so on are literally crammed in one place overcrowded with tourists. I’m sure if you had loads of time, you could also go explore the city itself. For today, we stayed with all the other tourists. It’s way too expensive, but we climbed the tower for 18€ to get a spectacular view. It’s 257 stairs up there. I counted differently, but I’m sure they know better…
We had started our visit with the cemetery before that. But in tourist land things are stressful so I had to rush to the appointed tower tour. I convinced the lady at the cemetery to let me back in afterwards. She agreed. Thank you. It had totally been destroyed in world war 2 and been rebuilt afterwards. All by hand. Incredible. I actually watched them do it in a film…
Next on the list is the baptism building. Yes, a whole building just for baptisms. It holds an altar and one of those old basins in which the children used to be baptised. Not just a splash of water on the head, but with a full bath.
After an overly expensive but quite good lunch, we make our way to the cathedral. It’s beautiful. And we even manage to get a stamp for our pilgrims credential.
We are leaving again. But not before kissing an angel!
Day 33: Camaiore to Lucca
For once I managed to get up quite early and leave before seven. The truth is, that after a month, I usually wake up at six anyway. So why not make something of it by arriving at places early, I thought.
So I stopped for a coffee and on I went. The first time the signs varied from the description in my book, I followed the signs. Only to find they were leading my in a strange zigzag way to avoid the road. All extra steps my friends. No thank you. So I went back on the road and ignored all signs. Finally I had to climb up a steep hill covered in horse flies. Again. These little monsters are everywhere! The views are great however. And just so that you know they still exist, here is a picture of a madonna shrine…
The landscape is very hilly and the sun is quite strong already at 9am. But there is shade again and again, and I pass through some very nice little villages.
I reached Lucca by 12.30pm. Entering through one of the old gates, I make my way to the tourist office to get a map.
After checking into the hostel, I have some lunch and climb a really important tower called Torre Guinigi to have an amazing view of the city. After doing the first steps, I realize I have already walked 25km in the morning. The view is amazing though.
I make my way to the cathedral, where the entrance is free for pilgrims (everything costs money here. Tourist town…) so we can get the stamp.
I have a coffee and meet an Italian guy who used to work in Timmendorf, next to where I live… He says we should have dinner together. At 21.30. Italian time. Too late for me. And I wanted to be on my own anyway. I keep wandering to look at everything important and then go to a Puccini concert in a church in the evening. Very happy!
Returning to the hostel I run into Mery, the Spanish pilgrim I met on day two. Since she wants to go there too, we head to Pisa together today. A day to relax from the pilgrimage…
Day 32: Marina di Massa to Camaiore
It was a long straight walk along a street so close to the sea yet not close enough to see it today. This is the region where marble is produced. You might have heard of Carrara. The region is called Massa-Carrara. After that endless walk through a hopeless tourist area, I left this region behind.
However, obviously, I had to go for a swim before doing so since I didn’t go yesterday. The detour should at least have been worth it. It wasn’t as easy as I thought. All of the beaches down there are privately owned and you can only use them if you rent a sun umbrella or chairs. Since I’m from Germany where every beach is public (as far as I’m aware of) this seems ridiculous to me. Technically, they can’t forbid you to go for a swim. It’s just that you can’t reach the ocean. We learned it the hard way today. Eventually we made it to about five metres of public beach and I finally got my well deserved swim I. The salty water. Do you know what it’s like when you lie in the sea on your back? Your ears go underwater and you just stay above without any motion necessary. It was joyful. My whole body relaxed and I heard the most amazing sound of the day: silence! I enjoyed it very much.
Shortly after, Jesper’s and my way parted. He is taking a rest day at the sea, I wanted to walk on to maybe go to Pisa for a day while I’m in Lucca, which I should be reaching tomorrow. A rest day is needed. But after all the tourists in board shorts, I know I’d rather take it in a city with loads of culture to admire (and things NOT to buy…).
I intended to walk back up to the Via to reach Camaiore only to realise the way was twice as far as I thought. So Jesper convinced me to take the bus. I happily agreed. It was a detour of five kilometres to go to the beach. I’m happy to take the bus back. And I really enjoy this place here.
Well, when I arrived, the ostello seemed to be closed. But I asked around and found a different entrance. A little boy found the right person for me inside after telling him I. My three Italian words that I wanted to sleep here. The guy says they are full since a group of forty people is staying here tonight. I can’t believe it! I say that I got a mattress, if he maybe has a little space for me. He does. It’s the room that leads to all of the storage spaces to there is constant coming and going he says. No privacy. But he makes me a proper bed with a mattress, so I don’t care.
What I love even more is the shower. It’s crazy how walking in the heat makes you smell so badly (seriously!) and feel so dirty. Showering is what makes you feel human again.
So then I went for a long walk around the city. It’s beautiful.
In the church I ask the only person there for a stamp: the cleaning lady. She finds one. And is super nice.
I get myself some mandarins for tomorrow and strawberries to eat straight away. It feels like the whole town is looking at me while I walk happily down the road. Time for ice cream.
On a postcard I discovered that there is a Badia church so I set out to find it. And I do. The organist is practicing for a wedding when I enter. So beautiful!
Then I buy a little notebook and have dinner in the square. All by myself. I can’t tell you how much I’m enjoying the solitude. Company was amazing so far. But being alone is just right now.
Day 31: Sarzana to Marina di Massa
After leaving Sarzana this morning I had to return immediately to pick up my walking stick in the café. First extra kilometre. I then attached them both to the backpack. Hands free now. Then we followed the signs to end up at a roundabout with no more signs. Apparently we missed a turn and walked some more additional kilometres up to that beautiful old castle. Today, however, I don’t mind. It’s hot already and pretty exhausting. Sweat is running down everywhere. But the weather is nice and so is the road. I’m annoyed, yes. But I don’t mind the walk.
Back on the Via, we cross beautiful Tuscany. I can’t describe how amazing things look and smell. The colours are bright, olive trees everywhere, cacti all around…
And then, we reach the sea. Stopping for a cool coke we get our first chance to enjoy the view.
Several kilometres further on, having set up tent on a campsite and having showered long and with massive amounts of soap against the sweat from walking in the hot sun for half a day, we finally make it into the sea.
Feeling fresh and nice again, we have dinner at the beach to come back to machine washed clothes. I have mentioned before the amazing feeling and smell of it.
Today was amazing. And because of days like these I love travelling. It’s been one month on the road for me today! Unbelievable! Don’t rest in one place. There are so many others to be discovered!
PS: I have amazing pictures of today, but the internet is being stupidly slow on full reception. I’ll put them all in tomorrow. Sleep well y’all.
Day 30: Villafranca to Sarzana
Due to all the rain and the paths through the woods being really muddy, we take the cycling path from Villafranca to Aulla. It’s like being in the rain forest. Including humid air, light rain and horse flies. We even encounter a wild hog. Very glad it stayed hidden in the trees after making some frightening noises…
We come last a little village called Lusuolo which seems perfect for a nice calm holiday in the hills.
The sky stays grey the whole time, but it doesn’t rain too badly. In the next village Barbarasco we even take off the rain gear. Through Terrarossa we make it to Aulla. We considered staying here but it’s only around eleven when we get there. So we get a stamp in the abbey which is also the pilgrims hostel and try to figure out what to do next. The very nice, very modern Italian priest gives me a coffee and biscuits and sits down with us. He advises us not to take the path through the woods because although it’s doable it would be very hard. The little road has been blocked by mud coming down the hills he says. So our only option is the national road. It’s not too bad as it only has two lanes and the cars aren’t going too fast. The sky has cleared up, the sun is shining. We have lunch and wait for traffic to slow down and on we march. It’s strenuous. And eight kilometres before our goal we give up. After buying some new things at Decathlon, we make our way to the train. It takes EIGHT MINUTES to get to Sarzana. We would have walked another two hours… Arriving, we run into the Italians again. Some of them took the hiking trail and jumped onto a bus eventually. Jesper and I have a look around tone and then a very nice dinner. Afterwards we have some beers with the five Italians in the backyard of the church we’re staying at. It’s a great evening and I can use my two Italian sentences I learned with my app so far. Then I mostly speak English…
We are now sitting in the square having breakfast watching the market people setting up. Off to the sea today. Massa here we come. Get your bathing suits ready!
Day 29: Pontremoli to Villafranca in Lunigiana
Today it rained. That’s really all I have to say. The thing with rain on a pilgrimage/hike is that not only are you getting very wet (which s***s) but you also kind of constantly look down. I bought a rain poncho and I’m very happy about that decision. However, the quality isn’t great so it ripped in two places. But even without those wholes you’re wet. Your face, your legs, most of all your shoes. Rain is dripping down the hood…. It’s simply very enjoyable! As you can imagine.
When we left Pontremoli this morning, the Canadians were already gone and we were yet to make the decision if we wanted to do a 34 kilometre tour or not. Well, with all the water… Anyway. It was still ok when we started walking and we followed some beautiful paths and little villages (all extra kilometres but for once we didn’t mind). When it started raining the fun stopped. A group of Italian pilgrims we had bumped into a couple of days ago in Cassio and who had stayed at the same places every night since, walked past us. Apparently our detours slowed us down a lot. We saw that they were walking down the road now and made the choice to follow suit. It was wet and busy with cars. Unpleasant! But a little shorter. When we reached Villafranca we really only wanted to stay there. It took us over an hour to search for a place to sleep. Finally we found the “parrocchia” which turned out to be a hotel. The owner gave us a pilgrim’a discount which I’m sure is the normal price! We took the room anyway. After a nap and having put out the shoes for drying, we went for a tour around town since it stopped raining for a moment. Stocked up on food for tomorrow, we are now ready to have a pizza dinner (which we didn’t get yesterday. Everything seemed to be closed so we ended up having our own food on the convents roof terrace with a view over Pontremoli, which was quite cool.) We are gearing up for a long walk of 34 kilometres tomorrow. This part of the Via Francigena is a bit nasty since eventually we’ll have to do a long tour of over 30k. I personally think between 20 and 25 is enough. We decided it’s better to do this march without your skin being wet. So I’m holding my thumbs for tomorrow… Send out a prayer (or other note) for us, if you feel like it 🙂
Day 28: Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli
Only briefly, because we’re about to have dinner and I won’t have wifi afterwards… After breakfast today, we made the last few kilometres to the pass.
We enter Tuscany with beautiful views all over. Today, most of the walking is downhill, which will give us muscle pain in our legs and lower back tomorrow for sure…
We enjoy the view for hours to then reach Pontremoli, where we are staying with the Convento Capuccini. I have to say at this point, after my rant the other day, that I have encountered many nice and helpful church people on the way too. These ones included! The city is beautiful. And I’m nearly through the mountains. On foot. After I thought I might have to take the bus with all my injuries. Very proud!
Day 27: Cassio to Passo della Cisa
Apparently in the Italian mountains it’s impossible to have any internet connection. I’m very sorry. Quite some catching up to do.
So, yesterday we left Cassio in the morning after a great breakfast at the amazing Ostello. All uphill, we run into an Italian girl and a German guy walking in the opposite direction to Turin. We pass a cute little village and after a lot more uphill, horrible sweating and heavy breathing, we reach Berceto. Beautiful!
There we have a nice pick nick and then visit the market and the dome. On the way out we pay a visit to a lovely little patisserie to get one of their dolci for the road. We choose and the owner decides to “pay” for us. It’s on the house. Farewell pilgrims. Thank you so much!
After walking up and down through the bushes some more, we change into the road where our hostel for the night is. Ostello della Cisa. It’s not actually on the pass, so we only get to see that the next day. But we have dinner with our Canadian friends once more and the view is awesome. Btw, there are more African refugees here.
The walking wasn’t easy that day, but my feet, knee and shoulder are alright. So no complaints here.
Day 26: Fornovo di Taro to Cassio
After saying goodbye to Günter in the morning we start our descend quite late around half past eight. It’s a lot of uphill and naturally it’s raining that day! The views are nice however and we take some shortcuts along the road to not constantly walk through mud while being attacked by mean insects.
Eventually we really need to take a break but can’t find any rainproof shelter. So we hide under someone’s staircase. When I get up again, an old lady is standing at her door. She invites us in while having half the family for a visit. We only want to use the bathroom but are being fed home made ravioli and white wine.
We continue walking through fog and mud. It’s wet and cold and anything but comfortable. After finding a bar, we have a hot drink to warm up and go back onto the road. Eventually we make it to Cassio. Obviously, when we arrive the sun comes back out. The ostello is amazing. You can take all you want to eat and then donate some money. They don’t have internet though. The day before we met the Canadians again at the hostel and they are now on the same trek. In Cassio we have a nice apero together. Today we are on the way higher up to the Passo della Cisa. More later…
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Day 25: Costamezzana to Fornovo di Taro
Halfway! I seriously cannot believe that I managed to walk half of the kilometres to Rome. I am very happy to have done so indeed, because it is an encouragement that is needed. Today I couldn’t help but be tired of walking. Nearly four weeks on the road, walking with my backpack and sticks every single day, it gets boring. I mean, seeing new things everyday, staying in a different place every night really is amazing. It’s simply the fact that I’m continuously doing this, especially the walking part, that bores me a little bit. I’m good though.
Günter is leaving us tomorrow morning to go back home and continue his walk next year to finish in Rome. He will be missed! We had so much fun together… Jesper and I are emotionally preparing for the hills (I was told they are no mountains at and altitude of 1200m…) just ahead of us. It’s going to take three days to get through. I hope I’ll make it. My heel was ok today. My shoulder made it too. They are both painful but in an endurable way.
This morning we had a great breakfast then walked uphill for the first time in a week, and passed some locked gates in the middle of nowhere.
The landscape today was beautiful. So even if it’s more exhausting, there is a good side to hilly landscapes.
We stopped at a church I enjoyed some time on the playground.
Later on we passed a very old oak tree with a mailbox set up next to it. Jesper opened it and it turns out it holds a notebook for pilgrims to leave a thought. How amazing an idea.
We put in another break for ice cream. (Really would have loved to have one of their delicious cakes…)
After an endless detour along the lake which made us walk 25 instead of the once 20 kilometres (we were outraged!!!) we finally reached the bridge across to Fornovo.
Onward and upwards!
Day 24: Roveleto to Costamezzana
After yesterday’s dinner and a cosy big bed my day was good again. I’m very grateful to the lady at the hotel’s reception. Amazing to meet great people.
They even take us to Fidenza the next village on the way in the morning so that we don’t have to walk the same way twice. Fidenza has a pilgrim’s office where I got a current list of accommodation and a new credential. There is also a very impressive, guess what, dome.
We go for a coffee and meet Jesper, a guy from Switzerland who has started walking a few days ago in Piacenza and is also headed to Rome. It’s his birthday today. He’s 27 now. We decide that there isn’t more to see in Fidenza and keep walking. On the way, you’re allowed to laugh, I trip over my shoelaces and fall kind of onto my backpack. My shoulder is stuck in it somehow and dislocates half way. It dies pop back in, but hurts badly. Nice old ladies come by and bring ice and arnica. We take a break. My knee is scratched too. But then I manage to put the backpack back onto my shoulder…
After a few more breaks we arrive in Costamezzana. It’s nice. And tiny. 400 people live here. We look at the church, which is closed.
Afterwards we hang out at the one trattoria in the village. Lo Scoiattolo, the squirrel. We have coffee and birthday-cake, which we don’t have to pay for, and then dinner later on. The owner also offers a round of Nocino, a liquor made from nuts with cinnamon and sugar, that’s typical for the region. Great! Sweet! Sharp!
It’s been a fun day although my shoulder is still hurting and I can’t lift my arm properly. But – my feet didn’t hurt today. Think positive.
Day 23: Montale to Chiaravalle della Colomba and back to Roveleto!
Vivere militare est. Living means fighting, as my friend’s tattoo says so nicely. Tell me about it!
We have a very good breakfast at the parrochia in Montale and decide to call the location for tonight before setting off so we don’t have to go searching for keys again. The person from the abbey in Chiaravalle is particularly unfriendly saying she doesn’t have any beds tonight. They have six. We doubt that there are so many pilgrims in one place, but what can we do. We try to rearrange our walking schedule and call the parrochia in Fiorenzuola, the village before that. They are fully booked. Seriously? At the original destination, the palace that had once belonged to the abbey has been turned into a great hotel. After having the wrong number we finally find a phone number to make a reservation. It isn’t cheap, but we’re happy to have a bed. So we start our walking along the street. Today, we pick less comfortable but a little shorter route because we have pity on my feet. Which is a good choice! Because in Roveleto we find this gem: an absolutely gorgeous church!
I feel inspired by all this beauty in so many ways. My thoughts are upside down and I am so very happy. We walk on to Fiorenzuola and after a little while my feet start aching badly. It’s like someone’s poking swords into them. First the foot, then the heel. And then that sharp pain goes into the shin. Lovely. I make it to Fiorenzuola and we take a little break. Six more kilometres to today’s goal. They are long. I can’t help but to think that I will get to stay in a great palace when I have never felt less like a princess. Finally, we arrive. The hotel is closed. Has been for two years. Who the hell did we call this morning? We try our luck to see if the abbey will let us in after all, since we’re pilgrims and they are the church and all that. We encounter one of the monks while trying to make our way through cars and tables that are being set up. Apparently they are having a party tonight so they aren’t taking any pilgrims. (We knew there weren’t six pilgrims in one place at a time!!!) Ok. But, since we’re here now, isn’t there a way to give us two of those empty beds? There isn’t! Seriously!!!! I get so very freaking angry! They are having a party so I don’t get a bed? How is that Christian??? Well, we should have called is the monks answer. Grrrrr! It would have been Christian to let us in and invite us to their stupid party! That’s what I think!
We call the hotel again to understand the confusion. They used to have two hotels, one of them the one that’s now closed. This one is quite a bit back where we came from. But they will pick us up! For free! To help out!!!
I can’t fight the urge so I make my way into the abbey to find that holy m*f* to tell him what I think. Not because I need to get it out, but because I think someone should tell them that their behaviour is everything but what they pretend to be. After going through a thousand doors, I find him. I cry, because when the adrenalin of my anger kicks in, that’s what I do. And I tell him, in English, which he understands, that this is not Christian and that he of all people should be helping out those in need. He says, I should have called. I try to explain that that’s not the point. But he just waves me off and turns away. I’m not sure if he thinks I’m crazy or if he just doesn’t give a sh*! Well, I have made my point! These open doors are closed to us it turns out. I’m so very disappointed in the church once more.
In the meanwhile the shuttle of the hotel has arrived and a very nice guy picks us up. It turns out the hotel is back in Roveleto, the place with that beautiful church. It makes me happy. Seems like it brought me some luck. I have now taken a bath, yes, in a bathtub. I feel relaxed while still unable to believe. Should it be that as a result of my pilgrimage to Rome I will leave the church?
I want to point out at this point, that I have encountered so many friendly, helpful, loving and caring people in Italy who make me love this country a lot and show me that true Christianity, the kind that is based on Jesus’ ethic of love, still exists in the streets. And I’m happy to know. There have also been nice parrochias providing well for pilgrims (like the one last night). But apparently not every church person feels that life is about giving. “Do as I say, not as I do” comes to mind.
Today life was a battlefield. I’m glad to say, I made it through and came out on the happy side again. Stay strong! Keep smiling!
Day 22: Calendasco to Montale (Piacenza)
Starting on time this morning despite the “late” night with loads of booze, it’s raining. We manage to find a nice bar to have breakfast which includes a bread roll with ham and not just another croissant. Happy start. When we begin our walk the rain stops for nearly all the way to Piacenza. On the way there are two beautiful views, the rest is road.
After an endless walk through the outskirts of Piancenza, about fifteen minutes before making it into the centre, it starts raining again. I’m so glad I bought a (…nother) rain cape after the incident in the way to Robbio. In my fisherman’s cape I look awefully sexy (I bought it in a fisherman’s store in Mortara) and am well protected against the water St. Peter is sending down on his poor pilgrims.
In Piacenza we look at Il Duomo and other churches, have lunch in a nice old bar and later on an espresso in a cool café. In the beginning I was impressed walking into a dome, until I realised they have one in every bigger town. Still, it looks awesome! I get a stamp and the nice guy working there photo copies the last empty page of my credential just in case I don’t manage to find new one before this one is full.
On the way out of Piancenza through more rain, we encounter Romulus and Remus, the two brothers nursed by a wolf, who founded the city of Rome over a fight.
We arrive in Montale only to find the place that has the key for the ostello in the old Templar church is closed for holidays. Must love August in Italy. After several phone calls in Italian and not understanding a word, we finally manage to get a key. It was worth it. The place has been renovated but the old wooden structures and stone pillars have been kept visible and every time the bell rings you can feel the whole building shaking. Awesome!
We go to a supermarket and have a lovely dinner at our place. I also manage to find new socks to replace the ones that have a whole. Happy pilgrim… 😉
PS: I wrote this article twice because I was stupid enough to accidentally delete the draft. You better appreciate the effort!
Day 21: Santa Cristina to Calendasco
It’s my birthday today. I’m now twenty nine years old. Still not thirty, that is. So all day, that’s what I celebrated. Firstly by walking via streets and paths along railroad tracks to Miraldo Terme, which we shouldn’t have passed. Again, like so many times before the track has been changed and poor little pilgrims have to walk extra kilomtres. That’s already annoying in general. Today, however, it’s even more so, because we left late (since I had to check my birthday messages) and don’t have much time to be at the river Po at noon to catch the ferry. We do believe that the guy will wait some minutes for us though. So we make our way through bushes and fields, including a fair amount of churches, along a beautiful castle (which I decide to move into) in Chignolo Po, and finally onto a dam. The whole path there has been newly built especially for pilgrims. It looks amazing.
After a freaking long march across that stupid dam in the heat we finally make it to the ferry.
We are twenty minutes late and he, the private person who offers this service, didn’t wait for us afterall. Eventually we manage to reach him via phone and he tells us he’ll be there at 4pm. It’s 12.30…. So we wait…
He finally picks us up with his friends on board. It’s not a ferry btw but a small ship that races across the river to the other side in about five minutes. I mean seriously, he couldn’t fit that in at 1pm? Anyway, I read a book while waiting so never mind. We arrive to something like a party and are offered beer and also cake when they hear it’s my birthday. We get the stamp and move on.
The restaurant for the second stamp of today turns out to be the same thing. Shame. I’m a little disappointed. Hours of waiting, no real ferry and just one stamp so far…
We walk on past tomato fields to Calendasco.
The hostel doesn’t seem to be what we thought it was either the room is VERY basic and the English dude doesn’t seem too nice. More African refugees here btw. It’s so strange how you hear in the news that they are in Italy but only realise they really are when you get here and see them. I hope they’ll be well. We try to find a place to eat but everything is closed. Well. It’s Monday. I should have known. A guy we ask offers to drive us to a trattoria and the menu is amazing. We have too much food and too much wine. We then walk the 1.5 kilometres back to Calendasco. We try to hitch but no one stops. Instead they turn on their brights and speed up. Great.
We return to our hostel. Enea the English (son of the) owner has done our laundry, with a mashine, it smells so nice and clean. But it isn’t dry so he offers us a beer while waiting. He drinks with us. After learning it’s my birthday he decides it’s necessary to drink more. He even brings out tiramisu as my birthday cake. So we keep on drinking beer after beer. Apparently they have to take in the refugees. It’s their second round and this time it’s much better. One of the former refugees is now his kitchen aid. Enea says he’s a good guy. I think he made the tiramisu. Well done. Thanks!
Finally we have to go to bed. Taking our fresh clothes with us. I’m happy. It’s been a great birthday on the road. Thank you Günter and Enea. Tonight was awesome. All the best to all of you too.
My feet are in a lot of pain by the way. The tendons are blue and swollen. Not a good sign if you ask me.
Ps: I know I am a little behind on showing pictures, but don’t think the garden gnomes have disappeared. Happy to share them with you…
Day 20: Pavia to Santa Cristina e Bissone
Today’s journey went mostly via streets through many little villages with all bars closed since it’s Sunday. I don’t get it. Shouldn’t all the bars be open on Sundays because there’s nothing else to do? Anyway. So we walked out of beautiful Pavia (so sorry to leave…) and basically followed road after road, having little breaks and finally finding a bar in Borgioioso, which is 17 of today’s 27 kilometres. We get tired to be honest. I don’t get these people walking a minimum of 30km per day. It’s too much! For me at least. (Not meaning to be disrespectful!) So after 17 kilometres we’re tired and just keep walking on. Once more we are being eaten alive by the mosquitoes and stop at a nice fountain for a second coke just before we arrive at today’s goal. That’s another thing. Usually I never drink coke or any other kind of sugary water. Here, every day, it’s nearly essential. Maybe due to all the walking I need the sugar. But a cold coke on the way feels like heaven. (Dear Coca cola, you should sponsor me for this ad!) After another short walk we arrive in Santa Cristina. The Oratorio is fine although the showers are cold. Very glad I’ve been walking through the heat all day… We meet a Canadian couple from Quebec and have a beer and then dinner together. I get to practice my French again and even manage to communicate with that very own accent. The evening is good although the food doesn’t fulfil it’s usual Italian standard. (Maybe we shouldn’t have gone to a restaurant owned by Chinese people, being in Italy and all. But since it’s Sunday and the village is tiny, everything else is closed.) I’m tipsy after half a litre of beer and a quarter litre of bad wine. So off to bed it is. It’s my birthday tomorrow. I’m turning 29. But I guess I won’t make it to midnight… I get to be on a cool ferry tomorrow though and get to collect three amazing stamps instead of one. Yes, life of a pilgrim is very modest. I’m looking forward to my birthday on the road tomorrow. Sleep well.
Day 19: Gropello Cairoli to Pavia
My dear friends, I’m in love! With Italy, its people, its food and especially Pavia. But I’ll start with last night…
We had dinner at a hotel because everything else was closed due to the bank holiday. That hotel took in about ten refugees from different African countries. And although the food wasn’t amazing, I was amazed by the owner doing this. I couldn’t concentrate on our conversations much because I couldn’t but think what it would be like, if the situation in your home country was so bad you had to flee, risking your life, leaving behind your friends and family. And then you’re in a country who’s language you don’t speak, waiting for a permission to work when there aren’t many jobs anyway. No, I can’t possibly imagine this. But I felt that I really wanted to help. This fundraiser, raising money for people in the Middle East by taking the chore upon me to walk over 1000km, is something. I’m sure that more can be done. But for me, it’s a start. And I am very much looking forward to doing my masters degree I peace studies, commencing in October. I know, for once, I have found my way, my purpose in life.
The next morning we went to the hotel again for breakfast and I started talking to a young guy from Nigeria who’d like to come live in Germany if he can. I gave him my contact details and promised to help if I could. For him, just getting my number, he said, gave him hope again. I think, having that hope, he already made a big step. And I’m glad I could be of help with this.
Off we went on a long trip along the street. Jean-Luc is far ahead of us in no time. There is a path along the river, but apparently quite a few criminals operate in that area so you’re adviced to take the road instead. We do.
A while later we arrive in Pavia. We’re staying in the parrocchia di Santa Maria in Betlem. It’s all newly renovated, clean, light and totally amazing. We are being met in early again and are ready to go explore the town by 1.30pm.
I won’t bore you with too many church photos again, but il Duomo S. stefano and San Piedro in Ciel d’Oro are absolutely beautiful!
We’re having pizza for lunch on the plazza across the dome, later coffee and then ice cream (all dairy free!).
Pavia is absolutely gorgeous! I don’t know how to explain it, but after being disappointed in Vercelli, here, I feel welcome, home, comfortable – the need to return.
Most of all, I liked the university. It was founded in 1361. I got a thing for old universities. They feel like places with this amazing energy of the accumulated knowledge throughout centuries before us. For me, I have the impression that I can go in there and soak in this knowledge. I need to even. There is so much to know in the works, I could study forever. And I guess, in a way, it’s what life is about anyway. Lifelong learning. This uni feels special to me. I have a hard time leaving after walking through nearly every corridor and want to come back one day. Who knows…
After having seen nearly all of the town, we run into Jean-Luc and meet with him again for dinner. Penne allo scoglio. Yummy! Another perfect day in pilgrim land.
(Achilles’ tendons are still bad, but who wants to complain after a day like that!)
Day 18: Mortara to Gropello Cairoli
What an epic day. This morning we got kicked out of the abbey quite early so hit the road at 7.30am. The weather was nice and the path pretty even and simple.
We walk on for ten kilometres, which is supposed to be half way to the next village and two fifths of today’s journey. After stopping for a pick nick (with the steak sandwiches from yesterday) in the shade, however, we reach Tromello in just another 30 minutes. We decide that means we’ll walk further than originally planned. So we enter Tromello and want to stop for a coke in a bar where there seem to be a thousand people and no seats. It’s a bank holiday. Everyone’s on the streets. By the way, that’s something I really like about Italy. Everybody is always outside, spending time with others, drinking coffee and beer and talking talking talking loud and non stop. Great! Anyway, a man grabs me and asks me to follow him. I think he wants to show me another bar when he starts talking about a man, another one. So he leads me to this place in a backyard, where another pilgrim is resting, Jean-Luc from Switzerland. We are the first pilgrims he met on his twelve days on the road. The place belongs to Carlo. He takes care of the pilgrims. He gives us coke, a Via button, I as a girl also get a Mary key ting, and then he runs to the street to give us biscuits (they are selling them there because of mentioned bank holiday). Carlo is amazing! He so hands us a certificate and doesn’t want any money for all of this. “Pilgrims don’t pay!”
We walk on with Jean-Luc who is happy to have someone to talk to after two weeks. We walk along Santa Bozzola which has a massive madonna church and have the obligatory coke (you really need the sugar here!) We see done donkeys and goats…
…just before we come across a little party for the holiday. Since we stop to take a photo we are invited to join and have a drink. We also get offered cake and watermelon. They are a group of volunteers organising a party for disabled people who would otherwise be alone in this day. Of course, pilgrims are welcome too.
Just a little bit further on, bambi walks towards us. He’s lost and tries to find his way back. Poor thing decides to jump into the river to cross it. Only that its walls are made of concrete, so he can’t escape anymore.
We walk down the river with him for a while but are unable to help. Then our path leaves the river. I’m devastated. Poor bambi. I hope he makes it. After a cemetery, Italians are obviously putting a lot of money towards their dead, we make it to our final village. There, in the canal, we see Bambi again. He’s been swimming all this way with the current and is no stuck without escape. Günter steps in, manages to grab him by his horns and pulls him out of the water!!! Pewwww! He saved him! Bambi runs away all shaky to hide in a side street. We hope he gets some rest and finds his way home or a new life. It’s all we can do. Sorry, I didn’t take a photo. It was one of those moments when you stare because you think you can help someone with sheer will power… Thanks Günter! Very heroic!!! 🙂
We are now at the parocchia, where the pastor didn’t care too much about us, but the other guys had a beer with three tired pilgrims and talked a lot to us. Jean-Luc had reserved a B&B and we’re meeting him for dinner now. I had a great day full of action and kindness! The first part of my credential is full. My Achilles’ tendons hurt again. Yes, both of them. But I’m just hoping it’ll go away! Very happy! 🙂
Day 17: Robbio to Mortara
Today’s walk was great. We had sunshine and mild wind, walked through more rice fields and what seemed to be “bush land”. (Seriously, get someone in to mow the freaking stuff…)
We came across some churches like Santa Maria del Campo.
Arriving in Mortara we get to stay in a beautiful abbey. We are being let in before they usually open the doors to pilgrims and settle in. The people are amazing. The lady here brings us cold water and fruit straight away. We then make our way back into the centre of the village to enjoy some Italian life.
I can’t even begin to explain the taste. And so cheap! On return to the abbey we are served dinner which is incredible and way too much to eat. We get pasta and steak with salad. Wine too. There is so much food, we manage to make steak sandwiches for tomorrow. And even pack some fruit. There will be breakfast too. Everything is perfect for a pilgrim. A nice bed, shower with hot water, a place to wash your clothes and to put them in the sun to dry. The father comes by just to give us our stamp for the pilgrims credential. And all of this is for a DONATION! No particular amount of money asked. Crazy! We’re in pilgrim heaven (partially due to the sugar rush from our little feast earlier, I guess).
Day 16: Vercelli to Robbio
This morning we meet a Dutch guy in the convento at breakfast and agree to walk into town together since Günter and I also want to look at those very old churches before leaving. When we’re outside, he’s nowhere to be seen. We wait for ten minutes then leave. Rain has already started but is at a decent level. We set out to the town centre when the rain picks up and gets quite heavy. Günter and I decide there is no point in sightseeing in this weather so we make our way back in the Via. The rain increases and turns into some kind of waterfall. We walk on, knowing there will be a village after about ten kilometres for a little rest. It feels like forever since we get just so very wet. By the time we see a car under the highway bridge and Günter wonders what the guy might be doing there, I am soaking wet. My raincoat isn’t protecting me, water us running down my spine and stomach, even my feet inside my shoes start getting wet. I feel like I’m fully dressed in a shower. (I’m wondering later on if god was judging us for not waiting for the Dutch guy…) The thing is, if I was going home, I wouldn’t even mind. You just take a hot bath and put your things out for drying. On the Via, everything will stay wet for quite a while. Therefore, when you’re past the emotional caring, your reason jumps I and tells you, that this is stupid. So instead of wondering what the car is doing under the bridge, I approach the guy who owns it and politely ask if he’s going to Robbio. “That way. Straight on,” he replies and I point out that I was actually referring to him driving and taking us with him. He thinks for a moment and then tells us to throw our stuff in the back and jump in. Ok, should I be walking every kilometre of the Via to be a real pilgrim, is the question? Maybe. But seriously, it’s not supposed to be torture and I’m not willing to get ill and walk in wet shoes for blisters so that I have to quit in the end. So, judge me. I don’t care. It was the perfect decision. Because it kept raining for half the day. And this way, our shoes are nearly dry again. I need to point out however, that we’ve been truly blessed today. The Italian driver, I’ll just call him Luigi, saved us and the people in town were so generous. The lady at the church gave us umbrellas, several people pointed the way to the place to stay, unasked, the police showed us through and the community didn’t even let us donate any money for the stay but welcomed “due pilligrini con agua!” Where in the world does this still happen? Right, in Italy! In addition, you can go to a restaurant opposite the train station and order pasta for nine euros which is to die for. Elizabeth Gilbert knew why Italy got the “eat” part in her book… We only walked five kilometres today in impossible rain, but the day was simply amazing. Keep caring for others. And adapt to the situation. Onwards.
Day 15: Santhià to Vercelli
Today’s walk was long. We made the first eight kilometres to San Germano pretty quickly and we were well surprised when we got there. On we went, basically zigzagging around the highway through the rice fields. And that was it. All day. The sun got hotter an hotter (40+), I got an amazing tan (must love the pilgrim tan lines on neck, arms, legs and ankles…) and was dying in the heat. We had a little pick nick in the shade but due to the movement of the sun that shade didn’t last too long and we walked on. After what seemed forever we arrived in Vercelli. We’re staying in a convento, which is ok. I thought this city was some cultural gem and was keen to explore it only to find it very unimpressive. Well. I got a lump on my right Achilles so covered it in voltaren hoping for it to be gone tomorrow. Other than that, the day was very quiet. You wonder what I do when simply walking straight? Thinking about ex boyfriends for example (God bless them) and about the past and the possibilities the future holds. And then there is silence. I love how peaceful walking is. Very relaxing. Breath deeply.
Today’s view, only to be interrupted by a … CHURCH!
Which was, guess what, LOCKED! Of course… So on it went.
PS: I’ve now done two of eight weeks on the road and covered about 333km of a total of apparently 1133 kilometres.
Day 14: Viverone to Santhià
Getting up this morning felt easy. We packed our things and had a little breakfast at the campsite. Then all I wanted to do was walk. I might have got annoyed by the “tick tick” sound of my walking sticks and was therefore trying to escape it, but I really just felt full of energy and wanted to get to my goal. I was in no hurry though. I stopped to take photographs of four churches, two with cemeteries. Two of them weren’t even on my way and I did a detour, knowingly! Fascinating. We also stopped for coffee and later on had a pizza break in the grass. By the time we came close to Santhià, I have to admit, however, that my feet were aching again. And the intense heat was doing its job quite well also by pushing me down. It was seriously close to impossible to stop in the sun. It was like a cloud that pressed you into the ground. In addition we saw the first rice fields today. The area here is famous for it and there will be much more tomorrow. (Which also explains the plague if mosquitoes. The count if my bites is now over thirty)
I think it’s so great to see the landscape change while you’re walking through it. I guess, walking, you really perceive the world around you and don’t just rush from one place to another. Tonight we’re staying in a pilgrims’ hostel with six beds led by the church. It’s very nice. It’s got all the little things you need, like a clothes horse. We’re even getting little lavender bags for the backpack. (I also bought febreeze, since it’s smelling badly…) we did some shopping in a proper supermarket for tomorrow’s 30km hike. Phew! I felt like a normal person when I entered. How impressive. Off to enjoy some nice dinner now. Will let you know tomorrow how bad the 30k were!!!
Day 13: Borgofranco d’Ivrea to Viverone
Yesterday’s dinner with Lucia and Vincenzo at “I Tre Ciliegi” was amazing. All home grown and home cooked, with great company. They speak French and English and care just so much about their pilgrims it’s incredible. For breakfast Lucia even made little pancakes with water instead of milk because I can’t eat dairy. They didn’t even ask for extra money although we ate with them. (We gave them more, however) So, after a brilliant start… The day went bad! Seriously, I felt unwell the whole time, kind of sick in the throat. And we walked through mosquitoes to start with, then did a freaking detour because we followed the signs instead of our guides. They made is walk twice the distance. And I guess it was only to make us walk past a stupid café I didn’t give a damn about! I was so very annoyed. The grey sky above me reflected my grim mood very well. I want to say I was angry, but really it was more that kind of helpless anger, when you know you can’t do anything and don’t have anyone specific to point your hatred towards. In thoughts I sharpened my daggers and put on my red costume to seek revenge. I know, it’s a bit over the top and of course I didn’t do anything but to walk on. Grimly. We reached the next town and decided bot to follow the stupid signs again but rather go straight on. The day was hard. I was annoyed and angry with the world, or me, who knows. I tried so hard to shake it off, but me feeling unwell didn’t actually help getting over my grumpy mood. Then it got pretty hot under the grey sky. I felt even more sick and every drip of water I so desperately wanted to drink increased the feeling. Not helping. My mood didn’t get much better during the day. Don’t get me wrong, the route wasn’t bad, I was. It looked beautiful. I felt unwell, my feet were hurting. And all I could do was put one foot in front of the other. I didn’t even take photos. We intended to go to Ropollo and were closing in on the village before that is actually at a lake. So all of a sudden I had this idea in my head of swimming in the lake later on. I decided to descend the hills from this village and make my way to a campsite on the lake. My fellow pilgrim Günter decided to accompany me and we asked for a camper since he doesn’t have a tent. We are now at Camping La Rocca where the amazing Italian host gave us a caravan and is even helping us to find a place to stay tomorrow while offering us some wine right now. He’s now thinking about reserving a camper for pilgrims all the time… This is what I love about Italy. Some of the people are just so helpful and amazing! Thank you! Earlier, we went for that swim I imagined and it was even more fulfilling than I thought. I’m happy again. Thank God. Being miserable isn’t made for me!
Day 12: Hône to Borgofranco d’Ivrea
Today’s walk was beautiful. I’m proud to say I climbed every single stupid mountain just to descend at the other side. (And yes, it was climbing. I nearly broke my ankles quite a few times…) I made all of the useless detours to look at all of those churches that look pretty much the same and even more important are locked! Yes, in catholic Italy the churches are locked. Well. We simply stopped trying eventually. The path went through beautiful old villages, vineyards and forests, over some roads and in between very old stone walls. All in all, as I said, it was beautiful. And for the first time, my legs didn’t hurt so much. I could actually squad for a photo and get back up without any pain. Both my Achilles’ tendons are ok. I can feel them once in a while, but mainly they behave. The soles of my feet hurt after about twenty kilometres, but I think that’s fair enough. I have to say, today’s walk was good. I enjoyed it and took a lot of photos. Staying in a little B&B where we will have dinner with the family later on. Finally back in pilgrim mode. I had a great day! We left the Aosta Valley. There are a few more little peaks ahead of us, but I’m looking forward to reaching some nice lakes tomorrow.
PS: quite a few mosquitoes around here…
Day 11: St. Vincent to Hône
This morning I felt better though still a little weak. We walked on but decided to do only a “short” day of 22km for me to get back on track. For the first hour we mainly walked uphill and my lungs were burning as if they were about to explode while the sweat was dripping down my body like I was taking a shower. I felt amazing, as you can imagine. Then finally God showed some mercy and let me walk downhill on a path covered by the shade of trees. I thanked him a lot and he showed kindness by pushing some clouds in front of the sun and providing me with an alternative route that skipped yet another mountain of more than a hundred meters difference in hight. I was a very happy girl and got stronger by drinking tea and eating more dry bread things. We walked along a river and saw a beautiful church with amazing murals as well as a pretty cool castle (which we didn’t enter since they asked for money. Ridiculous!)
We encountered many a thousand dogs barking at us from every visible and invisible corner, like everyday I should say. However, today I caught one in action! And there were many more garden gnomes to admire. I won’t keep them from you. You deserve the same pleasures I experience.
There were only 3km left to reach our destination Arnad. It has a beautiful Templar church which really does look like a castle, built to protect their people.
Next door, the B&B for pilgrims, in an equally old building. Amazing. We keep going (uphill) to look for a diocesan to take us in since we want to safe some money. Just to find out, that is now the B&B. So we walk back, what are another thousand steps. Arrived, we realise the B&B is closed. Sure. What did we expect, really? So, again, we walk on and uphill, as we need to reach the next village for shelter for the night. Until there are no signs anymore. Great. We must have looked very lost when a nice Italian man approached us. He explained in French (I really need to learn some Italian) that we simply need to walk straight to get to Hône. That description is much better than any guide so we follow.
We see some people climbing walls, why not, and reach a little osteria. We ask if maybe they have rooms too, which they don’t. They too tell us to continue down the “chemin”. We do so and realise this is the main road. Fast cars and nearly no escape. Perfect. After a strenuous walk we arrive in Hône and ask for the B&B we were told to seek. We find it. We ring the bell. Someone opens. Thank you world. Finally. Well, nearly. Guess what? They’re full. Of course they are. But the lady is amazing and calls around for another place to stay. It’s August. It’s busy. We should make reservations, she says. And she finds us a place to stay. We walk more and get here.
Just when we finally arrive in our room, it starts raining outside. Which I think is positive. We shower, wash our clothes, make a tea (the usual life of a pilgrim) and walk to a nice restaurante when the rain stops. The food is amazing.
I eat as much as I possibly can and my plate looks like this:
I can’t get up from the table. And this is the first time it is not due to pain in my feet and legs. When we get outside the rain has turned into something like a waterfall and accompanied by thunder and lightning we rush back to our “home”. We’re warming up again now. Oh, what a day.
So, instead of 22km, we walked 31,6 and only made 30km on the route. Perfect! 🙂 more tomorrow.
Kate Walks to Rome 